A no-vax paradise
Plus sci-fi subway stations and Italian 'tempura'
You’ve probably seen the news about AstraZeneca already. In case you’re still catching up, though, the bottom line is that Italy, along with 19 other EU countries, has temporarily paused the rollout of that particular vaccine due to speculation that it may be linked to above-average rates of thrombosis. There have been two ‘suspect’ deaths in the country: one involving a soldier in Sicily; another a schoolteacher from Piedmont. The institutions’ response has been all over the place. Last Sunday, AIFA, Italy’s national health regulator, announced that “concern over the safety of the AstraZeneca vaccine is unjustified", adding that reported complications have generally been minor, that rates of thrombosis post-inoculation are what one would expect from the population as a whole, and that there is no proven causality between the vaccination and these deaths. Nevertheless, two days later, the institution made a dramatic u-turn, ultimately supporting a government decision to suspend doses as a precaution, until the European authority, the EMA, gives its final verdict. Confused? I don’t blame you. While we all wait for the official announcement, though, I highly recommend David Spiegelhalter’s piece in The Guardian, which unpacks the more irrational aspects of what’s going on. His conclusion, that we should strive to maintain “some basic humility before claiming we know why something has happened,” is difficult to argue with I think, and not only regarding Covid-19…
Presumably, the Italian government paused the AZ rollout in order to re-assure the public they are taking all necessary precautions to guarantee the vaccine is safe. Given those measures were already supposed to be in place, however, this is probably a self-defeating gesture. Based on polls this week (see below) it certainly seems to be having the opposite effect. Vaccine scepticism has been a problem in Italy for a long time. I wrote a long read a couple of years ago about how populist movements have perpetuated misinformation about health issues as a cheap way of undermining ‘the establishment’. Now, sadly, we’re seeing the consequences of this. Then, on top of it all, there’s the more general question of the EU strategy, which remains mysterious. Some international commentators, particularly in the UK, have been perpetuating a conspiracy theory which holds that the European Commission actually co-ordinated the AZ fiasco as a form of “Brexit Revenge” to cover-up delays in procurement, and to shift the blame for their own ineptitude onto “British pharma.” This is, frankly, nonsense. Even before the events of this week, European countries were seeking to diversify their vaccine stock. By the end of Q2, for example, the EU aims to administer 300 million jabs: this includes 200 million doses of BioNTech/Pfizer, 55 million doses of Johnson & Johnson and 35 million of Moderna. The numbers speak for themselves. While the AZ disruption is an undeniable setback, it is clearly less serious than the deeper, and more insidious, threat that anti-vax movements pose across the continent.
In more EU-related news, Ursula von der Leyen yesterday revealed plans to open up borders this summer via an integrated ‘digital travel certificate’ which will enable those who are vaccinated, or who test negative for Covid-19, to move freely within the bloc. Unsurprisingly, Europeans are now rushing to make holiday bookings. According to data from Airbnb, prospective visitors to Italy are planning to head to the beach, or to small Tuscan towns like Pienza and Montepulciano rather than the bigger cities. This is obviously not good news for places like Florence and Venice, which are so reliant on tourism for their local economies. Nevertheless, it’s been odd, with that in mind, to see so many people on social media reporting anecdotes that the tourists are already flocking in large numbers to these destinations! Given that most of the country is in lockdown, that museums are closed, and the police are out patrolling empty piazzas, this seems unlikely to be a major issue. My advice? If you do come across these stories, take them with more than a pinch of salt…
Arts and culture: Back to the Future
I was geekily excited to read this week that work is now complete on Naples’s new Duomo station! OK, this might sound a bit niche, but there’s more to this story than you might think. Italy’s Southern metropolis is usually imagined in terms of its crumbling baroque palazzi and narrow cobbled backstreets. People sometimes forget, though, that it’s also home to what is by far the cleanest and best-looking metro in Italy. In most cities, underground train travel means being crammed in a foul-smelling tube, surrounded by unpleasant ads. In Naples, the experience is quite different. The platforms are wide and spacious, and, to make things even better, the surrounding corridors are filled with classical statues and ancient monuments which were unearthed during the excavation work on the various lines. The new Duomo station was realised by Massimiliano Fuksas, and the project aims to guide the user through “an astronaut experience” atop of the ruins of an old 1st Century Roman temple. I think the plans look incredible, and I can’t wait to see the end result with my own eyes once travel between regions is allowed again.
Tim Parks published an interesting long read in the London Review of Books this week about the life and work of the children’s author Gianni Rodari. I’d never heard of Rodari before, but he sounds like quite a character. According to Parks, he was concerned above all with problematising the commonly held idea that children are little, innocent “angels”. Instead, inspired by Carlo Collodi’s Pinocchio, Rodari produced works that engaged with the real, and complex issues that kids face, such as their desires for liberty and self expression, their longing for adventure, and their fear of betraying their parents’ trust. Rodari was a school reformer and he opposed rigid models of discipline and punishment. He published most of his stories in the communist newspaper L’Unità, including the bizarre sounding Adventures of Cipollino (1951), which is apparently about a young proletarian onion’s class war against ‘Prince Lemon’ and ‘Sir Tomato’ (yes, it was a big hit in the Soviet Union.) Sadly, the author ended his life like so many leftists of his generation: exhausted from overwork and underpay, and horrified and demoralised by the authoritarian governance he saw in Russia. This is all rather bleak. His Telephone Stories, though, which have just been re-released in a new translation, are joyful vignettes that celebrate the wit and humanity of ordinary, and realistically-flawed, people. Whatever your politics, this anti-romantic love for everyday life, is surely a good trait to encourage in children.
It seems like everyone is making podcasts these days doesn’t it? I have to confess I’m well-behind the current. In fact, I’ve completely lost track of what’s best to listen to. My plan for the weekend, then, is to rectify this by ploughing through all the latest Italy-related offerings. The Florentine has a pretty good overview for any readers that might want to follow suit: they’ve selected Spritz and Grits, aka aperitivo gossip with the writer Mary Gray and tour guide Sally Tucker; Cooking with an Italian Accent, hosted by the food blogger Giulia Scarpaleggia; and The Renaissance by Denis Byrd, which, as the name suggests, is about art history. One show I can personally vouch for is Katie Parla’s Gola, which integrates culinary stories with reflections on history and culture. The recent episode, ‘Moving Food and People’, co-hosted by Migrants of the Mediterranean, is a great starting point. Finally, Alexandra Korey (ArtTrav) and Georgette Jupe (Girl in Florence) have recently started a weekly clubhouse discussion called ‘The Italy Club’, so check that out if you’re on the platform. I hope to join in soon, always presuming my now rather outmoded iPhone can handle it…
Recipe of the week: fritto misto di verdure
Something tells me Gianni Rodari would have enjoyed this week’s recipe. The literal translation, ‘mixed fried vegetables’, might sound rather modest. Trust me, though, this is epic. It’s the kind of food that reminds me of sagre in Emilia Romagna and Tuscany; those village fairs with big long tables, and live music, and a generally raucous atmosphere. There are three simple steps: 1) chop assorted veggies into small, thin strips 2) dip in a batter of your choice (I like this one) 3) fry away. This is food to drink with. Italians would usually go for a really cheap white, like a pignoletto; or perhaps a cold, fizzy red like lambrusco. Whatever you choose, you want something fruity, not too dry. This is not gourmet stuff, and it’s all about the experience. If you can, serve this on a big platter atop some old, dusty looking paper: it’s a vital ingredient for absorbing the excess oil, but it also helps create that mock-festival vibe, which, for some reason, just makes the whole dish taste better than it should.
That’s it for this week - as ever I do hope you enjoyed this instalment. If you haven’t already, please do follow the ‘Week in Italy’ Facebook page, or my twitter, for a few extra links and easy-access to the substack archive. If this email was forwarded to you, or you’re accessing on the web and would like to receive further updates, you can subscribe using this link below. Thanks!
About Me
My name is Jamie Mackay (@JacMackay) and I’m an author, editor and translator based in Florence. I’ve been writing about Italy for a decade for international media including The Guardian, The Economist, Frieze, and Art Review. I launched ‘The Week in Italy’ to share a more direct and regular overview of the debates and dilemmas, innovations and crises that sometimes pass under the radar of our overcrowded news feeds.
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