The Republic Slumbers
Plus, Draghi's not-so-green recovery plan and the latest from Tim Parks
It’s been a slow-ish news week here in Italy. Not that I’m complaining. It happens every year actually. As soon as the temperatures get above 30 degrees journalists seem to give up on reporting, politicians vanish to their summer villas and civil society winds itself down into a synchronised snooze. These are times for reflection. Yesterday was the festival of the Republic, and a rather worn-down-looking President Mattarella gave the speech that was expected of him: “just like 75 years ago it’s time for recovery,” he said, “it’s time for the youth to take charge,” and so on. Nobody was paying much attention. Covid numbers are down to the point that several regions look set to enter ‘white’ zone status now, and everyone I know is trying to work out what that actually means for their holiday plans. Based on a short google investigation, from what I can tell, it seems that discos and clubs are about to re-open… HOWEVER people won’t be allowed to dance (???) I can hardly think of a better metaphor for where we’re at in summer 2021. As for me I’ve spent the past week nursing mosquito bites, feasting on apricots, and making notes in the margins of an old anti-fascist novel by Elio Vittorini which, I have to say, has stood the test of time. I mean, how good is this opening? “I saw posters for the newspapers blaring their advertisements, and I hung my head [….] for I was filled with abstract furies.”
For any readers planning a trip to Italy this summer, here’s a link to bookmark. The region of Lazio has just announced that they will be offering a free night or even two night stay to all travellers who sleep in a hotel in the area around Rome between June-August. The deal, which is called ‘Più notti, più sogni’ (‘More nights, more dreams) has a couple of caveats. It’s only valid for certain structures - soon to be listed on the region’s tourist site Visit Lazio - and you have to stay for a total of more than three nights. Other than that, though, this seems like a good, legitimate, offer that would be well worth taking advantage of. If you don’t know Lazio, the region offers just as much to do as nearby Umbria and Tuscany. I walked a stretch of the via Francigena with some friends a couple of years ago, and can 100% vouch for the beauty of the luscious forests between Viterbo and Sutri. There are some decent country restaurants too, not to mention the underrated coastal towns, like Gaeta, or the extensive network of Roman ruins and old Etruscan tombs. In short, it’s a valid alternative to the better-worn paths. For more details on how to claim the discounted rates check out this article over at Italy Magazine.
Some environment news: this week the PM Mario Draghi announced that the Italian government will be allocating funds to modernise the notorious ILVA steel plant in Taranto. If you’ve never heard of it, ILVA is one of the biggest polluters in Italy; a blight on the land, the sea and indeed the workers and local population who, as various studies have shown, have an increased risk of numerous cancers. Activists have been calling for a managed decommissioning process for over a decade now, and they enjoy considerable public support. The previous owners, the Riva brothers, have even been sentenced to 20+ years in prison for allowing the plant to spew out deadly pollution. Despite this, the state has confirmed they will only be making gradual tweaks to improve safety measures and efficiency. There’s no denying these are complex issues, and that developing a sustainable and just model for industrial transition properly takes money, time and vision. Still, when you take into consideration the fact that the government will still be using a considerable amount of cash from the EU’s €672.5bn “green” recovery plan in order to pay for what is - effectively - maintenance work on two coal powered blast-furnaces, it all starts to look more suspicious. Draghi has been a leading voice in the call for Europe to be a carbon neutral continent by 2050. His actions here, though, would seem to fall well short of the kind of urgent changes that are needed.
Arts and culture: the force of destiny
Whatever you think of his grouchy persona there’s no question that Tim Parks is a prolific and talented writer. After publishing two books in two years, plus several translations on top of that, he’s got yet another one out today. Walking with Garibaldi from Rome to Ravenna tells the story of the author’s 250-mile pilgrimage, following in the steps of the eponymous 19th century revolutionary. It is, according to Penguin, a “portrait of Italy past and present, and a celebration of determination, creativity, desperate courage and profound belief.” Intriguing. I have to admit I’ve always preferred Parks’s non fiction to his novels (he’s a wonderful prose stylist, yes, but rather affected in his storytelling?). Still that’s a subjective point, and I’m definitely looking forward to reading his take on the Italian ‘national question’; as well as the by now inevitable musings / tragi-comic laments on life in this country which are bound to be hilarious. Buy it from the publisher here.
Sticking with the travel-heavy tone this week, I want to share a rather niche, but I think interesting nugget of art news for any readers in or planning to visit Sicily. Cottanera, the esteemed wine producers, are now hosting exhibitions in their vineyards around the foothills of Mt. Etna. The first show, curated by Rome’s Gilda Lavia Gallery, features the work of Gabriella Ciancimino, and it’s called ‘Liberty Flowers’. Ciancimino has been working on these pieces for years now, which explore “the libertarian attitudes and behaviour of humans and plants, looking into micro-stories relating to the great history of resistance.” They are - as you can see here - beautiful, organic structures, made from and inspired by the plant-life of the Nebrodi National Park, near Palermo. Honestly it’s hard to think of a better place to see these works than in the open air, at the foot of Europe’s most active volcano. So, if Sicily features in your summer plans this year, this is one to add to your itinerary for sure. Meanwhile, to find out more about Ciancimino and her work, check out her portfolio.
Recipe of the week: focaccia con le cipolle
Focaccia is one of those things. It sounds easy enough to make: water, flour, yeast, salt, olive oil, a light topping. Chuck it in the oven and you have bread. Well, as anyone who’s tried to make it will know, it’s far more complicated than that. There are weird frustrations: the atmosphere and moisture levels make a difference to the dough. Some yeasts just don’t bubble-up correctly. The flour - obviously - makes a huge difference. And don’t even get me started on the oven... Still, despite the fact it’s perfectly easy to get decent Tuscan schiacciata round here, I felt like a challenge this week so - in true bourgeois lockdown baker fashion - focaccia it was. I went for Fred Plotkin’s version from Recipes from Paradise and chucked onions on top. It was OK. 7.5/10. Not at all bad, but definitely room for improvement. I’m giving this one another go - following these tips by Felicity Cloake - but if you happen to have any life-changing kitchen hacks, or a decent alternative recipe, then please do get in touch and let me know. Thanks!
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About Me
My name is Jamie Mackay (@JacMackay) and I’m an author, editor and translator based in Florence. I’ve been writing about Italy for a decade for international media including The Guardian, The Economist, Frieze, and Art Review. I launched ‘The Week in Italy’ to share a more direct and regular overview of the debates and dilemmas, innovations and crises that sometimes pass under the radar of our overcrowded news feeds.
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